Skip to main content

30,000 Miles In Two Dealerships Say My Hyundai Palisade's Noise Is a Spark Knock, But Even Cleaning And Switching Gas Stations With Right Additives Don't Help

She ditched QT and Kroger gas for BP like her Hyundai service manager advised, but the unexpected knocking in her Palisade’s engine only got worse, raising bigger questions no one at the dealership wants to answer.

By now, most Hyundai Palisade owners know this SUV blends luxury and practicality in a surprisingly pleasant way. It’s built to haul families in style and comfort without breaking the bank. But what happens when something unexpected interrupts that quiet, cushioned ride, and nobody seems to agree on what it actually is?

Well, that’s what led me deep into a buzzing thread inside the Hyundai Palisade Owners Family Facebook group. One post from a concerned owner named Danielle stopped me cold. Because beneath the technical terms and conflicting advice was a real, lingering question: Is this a simple spark knock, or the sign of something more serious going on under the hood?

Anyone heard of spark knock? Two different dealerships have said this is what I am hearing in my Hyundai Palisade,” Danielle wrote. “I did the fuel injection/spark plug cleaning and have switched from QT gas and Kroger gas to BP gas because the service manager said only BP, Chevron, and Racetrac have the right additives for Hyundai’s engines, but it’s not getting any better.

Is this a real issue? Is this a defect with my car or a known issue? Is it going to get worse? I don’t want to get stranded somewhere.

It started at 30,000 miles and I am now at 60,000 on my Hyundai Palisade and it’s just getting worse.

Let’s break that down for a moment. Spark knock - also called engine knock, pre-ignition, or detonation - is when fuel inside your cylinder ignites at the wrong time, often before the spark plug fires. It creates a distinct metallic pinging or rattling sound. Most modern engines have knock sensors that adjust timing to reduce this. But when the sound sticks around, or worse, gets louder, owners like Danielle understandably start asking tougher questions.

Hyundai Palisade SparksIt's Not Just the Gas

Here’s where things took a sharp turn. Danielle followed up her post by revealing that her engine was idling roughly—and that when she checked the oil, it was “bone dry.” Even more concerning, her coolant level was low again, and she added:

“It was just in the dealership for this problem April 1, 2025, and my coolant is low again too! The radiator blew last year. I don’t think this is a ‘gas’ issue.”

That’s not a one-off. Several group members chimed in with similar experiences. Harvey Zook wrote:

“It doesn’t sound like a gas issue. I had my engine replaced at 84,000 miles because of oil consumption. I would never again follow the 7500 miles oil changes. I’m now doing it every 3,000 miles so will see how it turns out.”

Here’s the real kicker: Hyundai's 3.8L GDI V6 engine - found in the Palisade - has had murmurs of oil consumption problems whispered in online forums for years. While not an epidemic, it’s become one of those quiet truths that more owners are beginning to speak openly about.

You might also want to read this detailed breakdown on what happened when a 2025 Hyundai Palisade owner faced a string of unexplainable issues:
👉 I Thought I Was Safe in My 2025 Hyundai Palisade, Then This Happened

Ticking, Tappets, and Dealer Guesswork

Another user, Dave Smith, dropped some serious mechanical insight that might explain the mystery sound:

“What many people do not know is these engines have a solid tappet lifter/camshaft. The top end ticking sound is likely not enough oil on the tappets and excessive clearance. The tappets are supposed to be checked and adjusted every 60k, but the dealer told me they simply go by ear. The actual work to adjust the tappet clearance is not simple.”

This is a critical piece of the puzzle. If there’s insufficient oil reaching the top end of the engine—especially at higher mileage—those lifters can start ticking, and unchecked wear can spiral into bigger issues like camshaft damage. This isn’t just annoying—it’s potentially expensive.

And yet, not all dealerships are equally equipped to dig into it. Smith added a five-step recommendation for owners facing similar sounds:

  1. Check oil level regularly. (Don’t assume it's fine just because you did a recent oil change.)
  2. Pre-ignition can be caused by carbon buildup.
  3. Use a cleaner every 5,000 miles. (BG is highly regarded. Techron is a close alternative and rebranded by Hyundai.)
  4. Run a tank of 91+ octane to test results.
  5. Scope the combustion chamber and valves via spark plug port.

These are proactive steps—small things you can do now to possibly avoid a big repair later.

If you've ever struggled with mysterious engine noises and dealership shrugs, check out this deep-dive article:
👉 Two Most Commonly Misdiagnosed Noises in Ford 5.4L Triton Engines
It shows just how often even experienced techs can miss what's actually going wrong.

Why This Issue With The Palisade Matters Beyond Just Danielle

This story isn’t just about one Palisade or one sound. It’s a case study in modern engine complexity. Gasoline quality, oil maintenance, valve design, and combustion chamber cleaning—these things all intersect in ways most SUV buyers never think about.

New Hyundai Palisade Blue Color

Danielle did what many would: followed dealer advice, switched fuels, used recommended additives, even had a cleaning service done. But if the root cause is hidden carbon buildup or oil starvation in the valvetrain, the knock sensor and fuel alone won’t save the engine.

One commenter, Paul McGahee, laid it out plainly:

“Today’s cars adjust for such things as engine knock. If the user manual says 86 octane is sufficient, then it should be. Run two bottles of Chevron Techron to a tank of fuel and see if it simply needs injectors cleaned… It’s made by Chevron for Hyundai and you can buy it anywhere.”

That gets to the heart of it. GDI engines—like the one in the Palisade—are notorious for carbon buildup. And while some OEMs recommend additive use sparingly, others quietly assume the driver will use quality detergents regularly.

As owners, we walk a line: trusting tech while learning what’s going on under the hood ourselves.

Also, consider this deeper question:
👉 Is Hyundai Having a "Beautiful" Problem With Palisade Sales?
The Palisade is selling fast, but are service issues being left in the dust?

What Can You Do?

If your Hyundai Palisade has a ticking or knocking sound, here’s what you can do today:

  • Check your oil level weekly—especially between services.
  • Ask your dealer specifically about tappet clearance and if a top-end inspection has been performed.
  • Run a high-quality fuel system cleaner, such as BG or Techron, and consider a tank of premium gas.
  • Document everything and push for deeper diagnostics if the problem persists. Don’t accept “it’s normal” if your gut says it’s not.

Long-term, we may start seeing more conversations around GDI engine maintenance standards, and whether 7,500-mile oil intervals are really in the best interest of engine longevity.

You may also be interested in reading this:
👉 Hyundai Palisade Doesn’t Let Me Get Inside and Some Dealers Want to Change the Door Handle

Have you experienced ticking, knocking, or oil level drops in your Palisade or another GDI engine vehicle? Did your dealer offer a real fix, or just tell you it’s “normal”?

Drop your story in the comments below - let’s hear how widespread this really is.

Armen Hareyan is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of Torque News. He founded TorqueNews.com in 2010, which since then has been publishing expert news and analysis about the automotive industry. He can be reached at Torque News TwitterFacebookLinkedin, and Youtube. He has more than a decade of expertise in the automotive industry with a special interest in Tesla and electric vehicles.

Image sources: Grok, and adaptation of Danielle's Image, linked above and used under Fair Use Copyright rule.

Comments

Will (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 9:21AM

Sounds like the timing is off, it could have been assembled wrong. A dealer should be able to fix it. If that's no help a old timer who can change timing could do it. It could be one or both cams in one or both the heads. In the old days you could adjust timing by turning the distributor but modern cars don't have that, it's all probably computer controlled. I once had a car I got the timing belt replaced on and when it came back it was running rough. I had to take it to a different mechanic to get it fixed and the first one had to pay the bill.

James Bottorff (not verified)    April 30, 2025 - 10:35AM

In reply to by Will (not verified)

I'm not familiar with the Nissan engine but modern cars have two problems. Direct inject does not keep the carbon off of the intake is addressed this problem valves. The oil vapor from the PCV valve energy intake manifold and Burns when it touches the intake valves. When they went to direct inject gasoline wasn't present there to keep this washed off. Toyota has addressed this problem by injecting a small amount of fuel in the intake manifold and the balance directly into the cylinder. Subaru condenses the oil from the crankcase ventilation and adds it back to the oil reservoir. Scoping the cylinder could show if those valves are carboned up and needs to be cleaned. The second problem is low drag piston rings that tend to stick. Valvoline has come up with a new oil called, restore and protect that is designed to clean those rings. They've had good success with their restore blue for diesel engines with the same problem. Personally, I would switch to the Valvoline store and protect and hope that in time it cleans the carbon off the rings enough for them to start sealing better.

James Parkerson (not verified)    May 2, 2025 - 6:29PM

In reply to by Will (not verified)

Hyundai consumptuon issues are growing. They have our Pallasade right now changing the engine after no ths of testing and complainta of it burnijg 1.5 quartz of gas every 1000 miles. There are many youtube videos on it.

Antoinette Hamlin (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 9:43AM

Well well I'm having these same issues oil being bone dry it's burning like crazy regular service frequently changes oil n filter fuel service done! Consumption test they say I might need a motor knocks and dings ticks it's crazy no one has gotten to the root of the problem

Edgar (not verified)    April 30, 2025 - 4:10PM

In reply to by Antoinette Hamlin (not verified)

Ive and 2014 Subaru forester and it is my 3rd Subaru and they all burn oil. That being said I did drive a 2001 outback into the ground not taking care of it and it ended up leaking oil the other 2 both 2014 one an outback burn oil but no leaks both run fine engine wise just need to pay attention and top off the oil every so often but seeing that I add a quart every 3000 miles it's kinda crazy. The outback though has transmission problems so will be getting rid of that due to maintenance cost is ridiculous

James McNeal (not verified)    May 2, 2025 - 12:24PM

In reply to by Antoinette Hamlin (not verified)

You may want to have the dealer check or replace the camshaft position sensor on you truck. I'm not a mechanic but I'm always reading about ways to improve my 2012 Genesis performance and recently came across the camshaft position sensor and it's function. I'm not saying the part is the cause for the knocking but it could be worth having it tested or replaced. Good luck to you. Jim

Steven curless (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 10:49AM

Go back to basics. EGR is not working properly. EGR reduces combustion chamber temperature. Fuel is igniting too soon because of elevated temperature causing spark knock

Mike (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 11:40AM

I had an old ford 4cylinder that had massive pinging. It was caused by oil and oil vapor getting into the intake via the PCV system. Upon tear-down, the combustion chambers and piston tops were encrusted with carbon, which starts to glow when the engine gets hot and then acts like a spark plug... igniting the fuel prematurely.

That engine was well worn. It seems like modern engines have reduced piston friction to the point of allowing too much gas to pass by (blow-by) which causes this oily vapor to enter back into the engine and then just gum everything up. This is also a problem for intake valves in direct injection engines.

I would try driving for several minutes a day with the transmission in a lower gear and let the engine rev consistently to 3000+ rpm to burn off some of that carbon.

Spraying things into the intake when the engine is idling never seems to do anything. ...Potentially can poison the O2 sensor.

Long term... by an EV ;)

Derek (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 11:40AM

I wonder if that truck has the dreaded Theta II engine. My mother purchased a 2015 Sonata Limited and that thing has been an absolute nightmare. Between the knock sensor problem (which sounds like this person's issue), the Variable Valve Timing issue where two plugs will pop out and flood the cam with oil, to the myriad of electrical issues like collision sensors messing up, sunroofs not opening / closing etc. I've owned Hyundai since I was 19 (I'm now 48) but this was the last straw. Try and get a dealership service appointment and they'll give you one in 2 to 3 months.

Scott (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 11:44AM

I had a 3.8 Liter V6 for about 5 years and 60,000 miles. No oil consumption issues. However I changed oil and filter every 5000 miles. My driving was mostly open road or highway, not stop and go.

Anyone who follows a 7500 or longer interval is just asking for problems, despite the Factory Reccomendations. Especially with GDI Fuel systems.

Dennis Garbacik (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 12:22PM

Detonation and preignition are 2 completely different issues. You cannot hear preignition. Detonation can be caused by using a low octane fuel, too advanced ignition timing, an over heated cooling system, etc. Start troubleshooting the easiest systems working up to the most difficult.

Jaco (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 12:42PM

Hyundai also owns Kia and Genesis. Their engines blow up and fail before 50,000 miles. Avoid. Arguably worse than Dodge and Jeep.

NMK (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 1:03PM

Knock can be called many names. Pinging, preignition, detonation, etc. There is a problem with the car if it cannot run without knocking. The car is supposed to be able to adjust for things like fuel quality and even if you mistakenly add regular fuel into a car that takes premium. Hyundai is well known for having knock sensor failures. I am willing to be that is what is going on. If the sensor is bad the information to tell the car that it is knocking never makes it to the cars computer. If it doesnt know, it cant make the needed adjustments.
Take it back. Tell them to replace the knock sensors.

Almighty Peanut (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 1:48PM

I have a palisade I bought used and it had a bad oil consumption problem I discovered after driving it for a bit. I got a can of GDI cleaner and sprayed it into the intake and did everything instructions stated. now there's no noticeable consumption. Whoever had the vehicle before me was doing 7500 oil changes. I do 3,000 to 5,000 now as well. 7500 clearly wasn't cutting it.

Mad Matt (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 3:03PM

Can tell from 40 years experience as a tech and a few as an adjuster fir an extended warranty company...Hyundai/Kia have major engine problems with the 2.4 2.0 and 3.8 for oil consumption and rid bearing failure. Also as a GM tech years ago had a knock issue and the fix was to remove the heads and grind down the piece of the piston in the top center that git hit and caused the ping. All new cars have knock sensors are are supposed to adjust the timing so fast that you won't hear the knock. And heavy oil consumption will cause build up like carbon and will also knock.

Bill b (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 3:09PM

If this person ran their motor till it was "bone dry", then this is likely the cause of the engine noise. Could be worn lifters, wiped cam lobe, or excessively worn cam, or crankshaft bearings. This is a customer maintenance neglect issue. Drive it till it quits.

Jeremy (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 3:22PM

Don't buy a Hyundai! Yes on the outside and the way they drive and the popularity fools you to think that they are good cars. My old man had 2012 Santa Fe and I had a Hyundai accent. My accent had 117000 miles and my dad's Santa Fe had 130 000. Both cars blew holes thru the oil pan. And I know two other people that had Hyundai's that also had blew the motors. Fortunately those last two had warranties because they bought them from dealers. However my dad and I bought from private owners. I have driven Honda's most of my life and I now have an older BMW with a quarter million miles. Never again would I even drive a Hyundai. Yeah they're cool they're trendy but they suck don't believe me do some research before you buy. Not saying they are all bad but in this day and age a car should not blow a motor under 200,000 miles.. and if you do your own oil changes forget about it Hyundai won't cover any of your warranty. If you have catastrophic motor issues. Everything has to be done at the dealer which I think is garbage. I trust myself more than some 18-year-old kid learning how to do an oil change. Sorry kid live and learn just not on my vehicle!

edward young (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 3:46PM

My wife had a 1997 Hyundai Elantra with a similar problem.It was faulty spark plug wires.Under warranty they couldn't find the problem,so much for trained technicians.Brought it to an old time mechanic and he figured it out in no time.Ran perfect after that.

Elton Michael (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 4:16PM

Just to add Any gasoline noted as "Top Tier" which includes Chevron, Texaco, BP and Valero contain the detergent blend that Chevron markets as Techron

Ed (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 5:09PM

The number one thing you can do is NOT buy a KIA or Hyundai regardless of how attractive the price. Ever stop to wonderi WHY they're that cheap? Do yourself a favor and Google "Hyundai engine" and leave it at that. See what returns from just those two words.

Gary (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 6:36PM

I had 5000 mile oil changes at the dealer and drive 18000 miles per year. when I started changing oil myself, the oil got dirty much faster than the dealer oil. I believe it was carbon buildup being cleaned meaning my past frequency and or of synthetic oil was not good enough.

William Balsis (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 8:06PM

I have a 2020 Kia Sportage with almost 32000 miles. Has a GDI engine. Dealer just filled oil as it's been quite a bit lately. They plan to check it in 1000 miles. Said they won't do anything until it uses more than a quart per 1000 mi.I feel this is excessive and hard on the catalytic converter.

William Balsis (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 8:08PM

I have a 2020 Kia Sportage with almost 32000 miles. Has a GDI engine. Dealer just filled oil as it's been quite a bit lately. They plan to check it in 1000 miles. Said they won't do anything until it uses more than a quart per 1000 mi.I feel this is excessive and hard on the catalytic converter.

OJ Carmo (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 8:12PM

I've had a Tucson 2021 for 4 years without any issues. 2.0L 58k miles and running like the day a purchased it. No oil consumption at all. I change the oil every 5K full synthetic Castrol or Mobile 1 5W20. I used Lucas Inyector cleaner every other tank and I highly recommend it. I'm getting 33mpg that I believe is very good.

Fred Friendly (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 8:48PM

You could buy an EV: No gas, no oil, no spark plugs! Less problems and much less expensive to maintain. Hyundai makes a couple of great EVs!

Tanya (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 9:17PM

I had a "spark knock" in a Toyota Corolla years ago. I put in premium gas, additives, etc. and it didn't help. Turns out it was our piston rings and our engine needed to be replaced.

Arr Dee (not verified)    April 29, 2025 - 9:18PM

Hyundai/Kia cutting edge looks inside and out, just are not enough for me to try their brand.
Way too many reliability and recall issues.
If I were an owner I would bail out in three or less years.
They just don’t display the quality of long term ownership.